Metal gobos suit bold single-colour logos. Glass handles colour and fine detail. How to tell which your artwork needs — and why resolution does not apply.
Written by the Signovation team, manufacturers since 1996 · Updated 16 September 2026
The gobo is the small disc inside the projector that carries your logo. The projector is just the light behind it. Which disc you choose decides how your logo actually looks on the wall — more than the wattage, more than the brand of the projector.
There are two kinds, and the right one depends entirely on your artwork.
| Metal gobo | Glass gobo | |
|---|---|---|
| How it is made | Your design is physically cut out of a thin steel disc | Your design is printed or coated onto glass |
| Colour | One colour only — whatever colour the LED is | Full colour, including gradients and photographs |
| Fine detail | Limited by how thin a line can be cut | Holds much finer detail |
| Enclosed shapes | Need small bridges to hold them in place | No such limitation |
| Cost | Lower | Higher |
| Best for | Bold logos, text, arrows, safety symbols | Multi-colour logos, detailed artwork, photographs |
This is the single thing most buyers do not know before they order, and it is the most common cause of disappointment.
A metal gobo works by cutting your design out of steel so light passes through the gaps. Now think about the letter O. If you cut out the ring, the middle disc has nothing holding it — it falls out.
So metal gobos need small bridges: thin tabs of steel left in place to hold enclosed shapes. They work, but you can see them in the projection as small breaks in the outline.
Letters with enclosed areas — O, A, B, D, P, R, Q, 0, 4, 6, 8, 9 — all need bridges. So does any logo with a shape inside a shape, a circular border, or a closed outline. If your company name is written in a rounded font, a metal gobo will show bridges throughout it.
Glass has no such problem, because the design is applied to a solid surface rather than cut out of it.
Work through these. Any single “yes” points to glass.
If every answer is no — a bold single-colour wordmark, a simple symbol, an arrow, a safety pictogram, “CAUTION FORKLIFT” on a warehouse floor — a metal gobo is the correct and cheaper choice. There is no advantage to paying for glass in that case.
Buyers often ask what resolution a gobo projector has, and the honest answer is that it does not have one.
A video projector — the kind in a meeting room — has a chip made of pixels. 1920 x 1080, or 4K. That is resolution: how many dots it can draw.
A gobo projector has no pixels at all. There is no chip and no digital image. It is a lamp shining through a stencil. Asking its resolution is like asking the resolution of a torch shining through a cut-out shape.
So if a supplier quotes you “1080p” or “4K” for a gobo projector, they are either confused or describing a different product. It is a useful thing to catch, because it tells you how well they know what they are selling.
What actually decides sharpness, in order of importance:
The same honesty applies to brightness. Lumens measures light coming out; watts measures electricity going in. They are not the same, which is why two 100W projectors can differ substantially.
But for a gobo projector there is a catch nobody mentions: the lumen figure quoted is almost never the light that lands on your wall. The gobo disc is a stencil — it blocks everything except your logo shape. If your design covers a fifth of the disc, roughly a fifth of the light gets through, and the lens loses more.
Which produces a genuinely surprising result: the same projector is brighter or dimmer depending on your logo. A bold, simple design lets far more light through than a fine, detailed one.
So simplifying artwork wins twice. It projects sharper, and it projects brighter.
Be careful with very large lumen claims. If a supplier’s figures work out to exactly the same lumens-per-watt across every model in their range, that is arithmetic rather than measurement — someone multiplied the wattage by a number. Real measured output varies with the chip, the lens and the cooling.
We quote throw distance rather than lumens, because throw distance is the number that actually answers your question.
Email your logo and tell us the projection distance and roughly how large you want the image. We will tell you which disc it needs, whether anything should be simplified, and what it will cost — including saying when the cheaper metal disc is the right answer.
See the range on our shop page, compare models on the comparison guide, check costs on the price guide, or contact us.
Answer two questions and we point you to the exact model, or email us a photo of your wall and the distance.